A. MINERAL OIL - This ingredient is derived from petroleum
and is used industrially in machine shops as a cutting fluid and
lubricating oil. Used in cosmetics as a moisturizer, mineral oil
may form a film that repels water and keeps moisture locked in
the skin. This is called the "saran wrap" method.
By holding water in the skin, it is believed that older, dried
skin will become softer, smoother and younger looking. The mineral
oil film not only can trap in moisture, but also toxins, carbon
dioxide, wastes and by-products the skin is trying to eliminate.
Conversely, it may also keep oxygen out. The skin is a living,
breathing organ and it needs to respire. When toxins and wastes
are trapped in and oxygen is kept out, the skin is forced into
an unhealthy state.
In the skin, a cell is produced and begins an evolutionary migration
to the surface where it flakes off and is shed. This process takes
as little as 20 days in younger people and as much as 70 days
in older skin. During this migration from the basal (lowest) level
to the surface, the skin cell undergoes changes in structure and
composition. These changes are necessary for the skin to remain
healthy and fulfill its role as a barrier and protector of the
By sealing off the skin and flooding the metabolic pathways with
large amounts of unnecessary moisture and toxins, studies indicate
the skin is made unhealthy. The cells do not grow and mature in
a normal manner. Cells on the surface are not developed and cannot
perform their barrier function properly.
Consequently, the skin cracks and dries easily - becoming irritated
and sensitive. If growth rate slows, the skin becomes weaker and
thinner. Natural repair processes slow. Harsh environmental elements
damage the skin easily.
In short, the skin acts older, begins to wrinkle faster, becomes
thinner, is more easily irritated and becomes sensitive. Actually,
moisture is the answer to dry skin, but incorrect methods of moisturizing
are very damaging and may create older-looking, rather than younger-looking
In the manufacture of mineral oils, carcinogens have been found
to often be present and in strong concentrations.
PETROLATUM - A petroleum-based grease, petrolatum exhibits
many of the same potentially harmful properties as mineral oil.
While attempting to hold moisture in the skin, it also traps both
toxins and wastes and keeps oxygen out.
PROPYLENE GLYCOL - Commonly used in moisturizers as a
humectant. propylene glycol binds moisture to itself and is believed
to hold moisture in the skin - keeping it soft and young. Proponents
quote and maintain studies showing it to be a safe, effective
ingredient. However, NEWAYS believes that propylene glycol is
potentially harmful to the skin because of the following reasons:
1. Propylene glycol is used as industrial antifreeze and as hydraulic
brake fluid. On the skin, it gives a smooth, greasy feel, but
it does so by replacing important components necessary for healthy
2. While binding moisture, propylene glycol also acts as a replacement
for water. The skin cannot utilize it. The skin functions with
water, not antifreeze.
3. MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEETS (MSDS) on propylene glycol
indicate that contact with the skin can cause liver abnormalities
and kidney damage. In many cosmetics, propylene glycol makes up
10% to 20% of typical product formulations. (Note: on most ingredient-content
statements, propylene glycol is often found near the top of the
list, indicating its strong concentration.)
GLYCERIN -Studies have shown that unless the humidity
in the air is over 65%, glycerin will draw moisture from the skin
and hold it on the surface rather than pull it from the atmosphere.
This dries the skin from the inside out. Sucking moisture from
healthy, living cells to moisturize dead cells on the surface
makes little sense.
COLLAGEN - This naturally-occurring substance makes up
the structure network of our skin. As we age, it is believed that
collagen begins to deteriorate and causes the skin to become thinner
and sag. Collagen used in cosmetics is derived from either bovine
(cattle) or avian (bird) sources. Using these forms of collagen
can be potentially harmful for the following reasons:
1. The large size of the collagen molecule (molecular weight
of 300,000) is too large to penetrate the skin. Instead of being
beneficial, it sits on the surface of the skin, plugs the pores
and retards moisture dissipation similar to mineral oil-based
formulations. It's like trying to play golf with a bowling ball.
2. Collagen used in cosmetics is either scraped from cow hides
(bovine sources) or obtained from ground-up chicken feet (avian
sources). Even if they were able to penetrate the skin, these
types of collagen have the wrong molecular structure and biochemistry
to be used effectively on the skin. (Note: when collagen injections
are given by plastic surgeons to plump up wrinkles, the body treats
it as an unidentified alien substance and systematically removes
it within a year. Additional collagen injections are needed every
six to twelve months to maintain the look.)
ELASTIN (Not to be confused with cross-linked elastin)
- This substance provides the matrix that holds individual skin
cells in place. It is believed that with age, the skin's elastin
breaks down and causes wrinkling. In an attempt to replenish the
skin, many cosmetics now contain elastin. As with collagen, elastin
is derived from bovine sources and has the same effect of filming
and suffocating the skin due to its high molecular weight. It
is unable to penetrate the skin and even if injected into the
skin by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon, elastin is unusable
due to its molecular structure.
Human elastin is very different in structure than that from animal
sources. There are some chemically reduced forms of elastin called
"cross-linked" elastin. Still, these altered elastin
molecules are too large to penetrate the skin and are structurally
Only one form of cross-linked elastin NEWAYS has found is both
compatible with and able to penetrate human skin: a chemical and
enzyme-reduced extract of cross-linked elastin called Desmosine
HYALURONIC ACID - This is one of the latest buzz words
of cosmetic ingredients. Hyaluronic acid from plant or animal
sources is the same as that of human skin and can be used if injected
by physicians or applied in low molecular-weight form. In most
cosmetics, it has an extremely high molecular weight (up to 15
million) and cannot penetrate the skin. It sits on the surface
and functions much the same as collagen.
SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) or SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLES)
- This inexpensive detergent is commonly used in cosmetic cleansers,
hair shampoos, bath and shower gels, bubble baths, etc. We believe
it is probably the most potentially dangerous ingredient used
in skin and hair-care products. In the cleaning industry, SLS
is used in garage floor cleaners, engine degreasers, car wash
soaps, etc. It is very corrosive and readily attacks greasy surfaces.
SLS is used throughout the world for clinical testing as a primary
skin irritant. Laboratories use it to irritate skin on test animals
and humans so that they may then test healing agents to see how
effective they are on irritated skin. A recent study indicated
that SLS penetrated into the eyes as well as brain, heart, liver,
etc., and showed long-term retention in the tissues. The study
also indicated that SLS might keep children's eyes from developing
properly and could cause cataracts to develop in adults.
Another extremely serious problem is the connection of SLS and
SLES with carcinogenic dioxins and nitrate contamination. SLS
can react with many types of ingredients used in skin products
and form nitrosamines (nitrates). SLES can react with ingredients
to form both nitrates and dioxins.
A variation of SLS is SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (Sodium Lauryl Ether
Sulfate- SLES). It exhibits many of the same characteristics and
is a higher-foaming ethoxylated variation of SLS. Clinical studies
show that it could cause hair loss when applied to scalp and has
AHA's (ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS)(i.e.: glycol acid, lactic
acid and others) - This is the breakthrough of all time according
to the skin care cosmetic world. AHA's work by exfoliating (sloughing
off) the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin. This leaves
only fresh young cells on the surface. The skin looks less wrinkled,
fresher and younger.